Waterborne wood lacquer is produced through a straightforward physical mixing process. The key to success lies in ensuring complete homogenization of all components during production and maintaining this uniformity throughout storage until application. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the entire manufacturing procedure.
1. Start by weighing the required amount of resin emulsion or dispersion into a clean paint tank or cylinder. Begin stirring at a speed not exceeding 300 revolutions per minute (r/min) to ensure even mixing.
2. Carefully add excess water, after accounting for the water needed for pre-mixed additives. Only use deionized or distilled water—never tap, well, or river water. Add water and other ingredients gradually using a drip or fine stream to avoid separation or clumping. Stir for about 5–10 minutes after each addition.
3. Pre-dilute the anti-fungal agent with 3–10 times its volume in water. The more diluted it is, the better. Slowly introduce the diluted solution into the mixture while increasing the stirring speed slightly to speed up the reaction. This step should take about 5–10 minutes. Some mold inhibitors may form gel-like blocks if added too quickly, so always add slowly and stir thoroughly.
4. Add wax oil next and continue stirring for 5–10 minutes. Wax emulsions typically mix easily with resin emulsions.
5. Introduce the film-forming aid directly into the mixer. Increase the rotation speed to 500–800 r/min and stir for 10–20 minutes. Film-forming agents can be used alone or combined with wetting agents, surface modifiers, or antifoaming agents.
6. Add other additives such as wetting agents and surface modifiers. Stir at 300–500 r/min for 5–10 minutes to ensure even distribution.
7. Finally, add the thickener. Dilute it with water or film-forming agent before adding it slowly to prevent clumping. Stir for 10–15 minutes to fully incorporate it into the mixture.
8. Add fragrance and stir for 3–5 minutes. Reduce the speed to 300 r/min to minimize evaporation of the scent. Most waterborne lacquers are weakly alkaline, so pH adjustment is usually unnecessary. If the pH is low, a small amount of pH adjuster can bring it to a slightly alkaline level between 7.5 and 9.
9. If any defoamer was left over, add it now for final defoaming.
10. After all materials are added, continue stirring for 10–15 minutes, gradually reducing the speed from 500 r/min to 100 r/min until the mixture is complete.
11. Perform a quality check by inspecting the appearance, measuring viscosity, determining solid content, and applying a sample to observe leveling, sagging, shrinkage, bubbles, or bulges. Leave samples for a 50°C thermal stability test. If everything checks out, filter and package the product.
12. Pump the mixture through a 200-mesh (preferably 300-mesh or finer) filter to remove impurities.
13. Each batch must be stored for inspection before being released.
14. After production ends, thoroughly rinse all equipment and pipelines with tap water to prepare for the next batch.
Water-reducible paints are made by first dissolving a resin in an organic solvent, then dispersing it in water using an emulsifier and mechanical agitation. This creates a post-emulsified emulsion that can be diluted with water during application. Water-dispersible lacquers, on the other hand, use synthetic resin emulsions as the primary film-forming material. These emulsions consist of tiny particles formed when unsaturated vinyl monomers polymerize in water with the help of an emulsifier. A paint made by blending a small amount of emulsion with a water-soluble resin is not considered true latex paint. While technically not classified as latex, such products are often referred to as latex paints in common usage.
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